January '25: Kantamanto Market's Fire Reveals Waste Colonialism, Video Documentary on Inditex's Extensive Air Freight Use, and more...
Welcome to the first News Update of 2025!
In our ongoing commitment to providing insight into the evolving landscape of labor rights within the textile and garment industry, we offer updates on the latest developments and progress, with a particular focus on developments in Bangladesh. Among other topics, this issue draws attention to the devastating fire at Accra's Kantamanto Market and its implications for local lives. Additionally, we delve into the contradictions behind Inditex's sustainability narrative with a short video documentary by Context, Reuters Foundation. These and other updates aim to deepen understanding and drive progress in labor rights and sustainability.
We hope you enjoy!
Your project team
STUDIES & REPORTS
Investigation and Report: Global Apparel brands linked to labor violations in Indian & Uzbekistani Cotton Sectors
An investigation by the NGO Transparentem links labor rights violations, including forced and child labor, on cotton farms in India to 60 multinational apparel brands (pdf), including Adidas, Amazon, Carrefour, Columbia Sportswear, Gap and others. The research reveals the failure of due diligence approaches to be effective in lower tiers and emphasizes the collaborative approach required for the extension of social compliance beyond direct suppliers.
Meanwhile, the Uzbek Forum for Human Rights has released a new report (pdf) on the challenges, risks, and responsibilities faced by companies when sourcing from Uzbekistan’s cotton and textile industries with a particular focus on German companies and their obligations to respect human rights in their supply chains.
Study: Automation Replaced 31% of Garment Workers
A joint study by Solidaridad Network Asia, Bangladesh Labour Foundation (BLF), and BRAC University, titled Assessment of Technological Transition in the Apparel Sector of Bangladesh and Its Impact on Workers, reveals that automation has reduced the demand for human labor in the sector by nearly 31%. While these technological advancements have contributed to economic growth and productivity, the transition disproportionately affects vulnerable groups, including women, older workers, and those with limited literacy, skills, or confidence. ;
Report: Authorities Fail to Enforce Chemical Regulation REACH
A recent report from ClientEarth exposes a troubling pattern in the EU's chemical sector, where companies have consistently evaded penalties for marketing toxic substances illegally. The findings highlight systemic failures in regulatory enforcement, allowing hazardous chemicals to remain on the market despite their known risks to human health and the environment.
NEWS
Video Documentary: Fast Fashion Giant Inditex wants to be sustainable. But is it?
A new documentary by Context, the video channel of Thomson Reuters Foundation, investigates the contradictions behind Inditex's sustainability narrative, uncovering exploitative practices that undermine its claims. Building on Public Eye’s prior research into Inditex's extensive use of air freight (in German), the film reveals how the fast-fashion giant’s strategies negatively impact workers while profiting from unsustainable practices.
Streamlining Efforts by EU to Consolidate EU Regulations into “Omnibus Approach”
Triggered by Draghi’s report, the EU Commission plans to streamline the CSDDD, CSRD and EU taxonomy regulations into one omnibus package. Social-democrats and fair fashion NGOs protest, urging to uphold the EU corporate accountability legislation (pdf), claiming that the ongoing backlash against the EU's sustainability framework comes at a time when business accountability is critically needed.
Industry Experts Set Out Fashion’s Sustainability Priorities For 2025
Building on insights such as Textile Exchange’s Landscape Analysis Report featured in the last Textile Insights News Update, experts have outlined sustainability goals for 2025. In this elaborated Forbes article, the author outlines the key priorities: promoting socially equitable transitions across supply chains, addressing financial risks tied to amterials, and advocating for enhanced environmental performance and circularity.
PRODUCTION COUNTRIES
Bangladesh
Women’s Representation Challenges in RMG Sector
Women’s representation in Bangladesh's textile industry is declining, both on factory floors and in leadership roles. Societal norms, family expectations, and organizational barriers are compounded by technological advancements, further widening the gap. A transformative approach is needed to address these issues, including targeted gender-inclusive policies and support systems. Highlighting the urgency, the EU and Shojaq Coalition organized the event “Learning Together: A Gender Justice Journey” in Dhaka, where stakeholders—employers, buyers, NGOs, UN officials, and trade unions—emphasized the vulnerabilities women face in workplaces and commutes and called for safer, more equitable working environment
Circular Economy Key to Bangladesh’s Climate Resilience
The International Chamber of Commerce-Bangladesh (ICCB) underscores the critical role of a circular economy model in strengthening Bangladesh's resilience to climate change. Transitioning to this model can help mitigate the environmental challenges faced by the nation, particularly as it is highly vulnerable to climate-induced risks. The ICCB highlights the need for collaboration across industries and policy frameworks to ensure sustainable resource management and adaptation strategies.
“The Fruits of the Uprisings Have Not Reached the Workers’ Homes”
Despite the rebound of Bangladesh’s RMG sector, workers report minimal change in their livelihoods. Hard-won concessions have done little to change workers’ circumstances, leaving their life as challenging as ever. Recent government initiatives include a 9% annual wage increment for workers with over one year of service, which the BGMEA has urged member factories to implement. However, newer workers protest for wage parity, forcing temporary factory closures due to unrest.
Labor leaders and government bodies are pushing for broader reforms. Demands by labor include a unified wage structure, easier unionization, and more frequent wage revisions. Meanwhile, the Department of Inspections for Factories and Establishments (DIFE) presents an 11-point proposal seeking higher penalties for labor law violations and stricter compliance before commencing production in any factory.
Vietnam Overtakes Bangladesh as No. 2 Garment Exporter Worldwide
While Bangladesh grapples with labor unrest, infrastructure issues, and political uncertainty, Vietnam has capitalized on its stable business environment. This shift has led to Vietnam surpassing Bangladesh as the world’s second-largest garment exporter.
Ghana
Fire Destroys Kantamanto Market, Ghana's Largest Used Clothing Market
A devastating fire broke out at Kantamanto Market in Accra, one of the world’s largest hubs for secondhand clothing, destroying countless stalls and goods and devastating thousands of traders who depend on it for their livelihoods. This disaster highlights the challenges of waste colonialism (Article in German), as the market plays a critical role in recycling fast fashion waste from the Global North. Recovery efforts are underway, but advocates stress the need for structural changes in the global fashion industry and greater support for informal economies that bear its burdens.
India
“Factory Flowers” – Beauty and Survival in India’s Garment Factories
In a thought-provoking article by Nandita Shivakumar and Nikita Joseph, the symbolism of flowers worn by factory workers in the garment sector is explored. The flowers, often a symbol of resilience and beauty, intersect with the harsh realities of the workers’ daily lives. The piece sheds light on how workers balance personal identity and the struggle for survival in an industry driven by low wages and long hours.
Massive Workers Influx from Bangladesh
Bangladesh's economic challenges are driving a significant influx of workers into India, particularly in Tamil Nadu's textile sector. Factory owners, seeking to reduce labor costs, are reportedly incentivizing illegal migration by offering attractive wages to Bangladeshi workers. Assam's Chief Minister points out that this trend is exacerbated by the industry's reliance on unauthorized labor, undermining both legal frameworks and fair working conditions.
Lives at stake: The Costs of the Textile Industry
This investigative article sheds light on the dangerous working conditions faced by migrant workers by vividly narrating their experiences. Poor workplace safety results in severe health issues, hazardous environments without adequate protection contribute to long-term health conditions. The story highlights how the industry's pursuit of profit comes at the expense of workers' well-being, revealing a grim reality behind the billion-dollar sector.
NETWORK & EVENTS
22th January 2025, 6:00pm CET, Webinar:
PFAs and Industry Lobbying (in German)
The Europe Calling webinar explores the pervasive issue of PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances), their environmental and health impacts, and how industry lobbying influences policies aimed at regulating these harmful chemicals. Experts and activists will share insights into the ongoing struggle for stricter controls and effective measures to eliminate PFAS from everyday use. Registration required.
10th February 2025, 11:30am CET Online Penal Discussion:
OECD Forum Side Session Addressing Risks Through Rightsholder-Based Monitoring
This News Update's authoring team will present their project in an OECD forum session, focusing on how rightsholder-based monitoring can strengthen due diligence in the garment sector. The discussion will center on improving labor rights and addressing environmental risks, with a particular emphasis on the methods used, Community- and Worker-based Monitoring. Registration via link.
12th February 2025, 11.45am CET, Online Penal Discussion:
Round Table on Plastic Waste Reduction (in German)
The "Round Table: Alternatives to Plastic" event invites stakeholders to discuss innovative strategies for reducing plastic waste and promoting sustainable alternatives. Hosted by Exit Plastik, the event serves as a platform for exchanging ideas among policymakers, businesses, researchers, and civil society. Registration required.
STUDIES & REPORTS
Public Eye Report: One-Earth Fashion (pdf)
In their new Report “One-Earth Fashion. 33 Transformation Targets for a Just Fashion System within Planetary Boundaries”, Publiy Eye provides transformation targets for a just transition in the fashion sector. From less resource and energy use, over slower production and consumption to decent work with purpose and fairer distribution of economic value, the transformation affects the fundamental structures of the industry. The paper aims to open a global discussion that will also be lead online in a special discussion series “One-Earth Fashion: how do we get there?”, from January to April 2025.
Briefing: Paying the Price for fashion: Securing a Living Wage for Bangladesh’s Garment Workers (pdf)
Swedwatch urges global brands to improve due diligence by engaging workers and unions, ensuring supply-chain transparency, adopting fair purchasing practices, and supporting living wages. EU Member States are called to enforce the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD) by broadening its scope, aligning with international standards, and ensuring worker justice through unified wage definitions. The European Commission is advised to provide guidance, curb unfair practices, and advance sustainable procurement policies.
Report: Reimagining Growth Landscape Analysis (pdf)
Textile Exchange has released a Landscape Analysis Report that explores pathways for shifting the textile industry toward sustainable growth models. The report critiques current production and consumption patterns, proposing alternative frameworks that prioritize resource efficiency, circularity, and equitable value distribution. The analysis is a call to action for brands and stakeholders to adopt transformative approaches that balance business growth with planetary boundaries and community well-being.
Report: Upstream Circularity Playbook for Garment manufacturing countries
Supported by Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) and the H&M Foundation, the Upstream Circularity Playbook promotes public and private adoption of business models that valorize post-industrial waste from processes like milling, spinning, and garment production. It emphasizes upstream practices such as sorting, segregation, and recycling, with practical applications in countries like India, Bangladesh, and Indonesia.
NEWS
Podcast Episode: Health Risks in Garment Work
Women garment workers face severe health risks as a result of exploitative power structures in factories. Unrealistic production targets, daily pressure, harassment, and poor nutrition lead to mental strain, physical exhaustion, and reproductive health issues. In this live podcast episode of Kleiderei Radio, Anthony Raju V. (Cividep, India) and Danardianingtyas Nitya S. (TURC, Indonesia), discuss these issues and advocate for systemic changes to uphold health as a fundamental human right. English language starts at minute 3.
Brands’ Purchasing Practices Push Crisis onto Workers
A new briefing by the Business & Human Rights Resource Centre highlights how brands' exploitative purchasing practices—such as delayed payments and excessive discount demands—shift financial risks to suppliers, leaving workers vulnerable. These practices hinder suppliers' ability to provide fair wages or comply with labor standards. The report urges reforms in pricing and contracting to protect workers’ rights.
New Platform Showcases Global Efforts to Combat Gender-Based Violence at Work
A new website has been launched to consolidate resources and actions addressing gender-based violence and harassment (GBVH) in the workplace. Aligning with ILO Convention 190, the first international treaty to combat violence and harassment in the world of work, the platform highlights global efforts by labor and women’s rights organizations to advance this critical agenda.
Products made with forced labour: EU Council adopts ban
The EU Council has adopted a regulation prohibiting products in the Union market that are made using forced labour. The text forbids the placing and making available on the Union market, or the export from the Union market, of any product made using forced labour. This is the last step in the decision-making procedure.
PRODUCTION COUNTRIES
Bangladesh
Latest Cases in the Textile Incidents Database:
The Textile Incidents Website documents two recent cases that exemplify the ongoing labor struggles, reflecting broader trends in protests and strikes. One covers a recent wave of strikes by garment workers, driven by demands for higher wages and better conditions. The strikes, spanning multiple factories, highlight the growing frustration among workers over stagnant wages amidst rising living costs. Factory shutdowns and blocked highways reflect the scale of unrest, while reports of police repression amplify concerns about the sector’s ability to address labor grievances.
The other case concerns unpaid wages at Abanti Colour Tex in Fatullah area of Narayanganj. Hundreds of textile workers protested and blocked the Dhaka-Pagla-Munshiganj road to demand unpaid wages. According to the protesting workers, Abanti Color Tex (which is part of the Crony Group) were shut down without notice, leaving the workers without wages. They allege that despite repeated demands for their wages, the owners have repeatedly refused to pay out the wages and that the Narayanganj administration has failed to find a solution.
CA Yunus: Bangladesh Committed to Sweeping Labour Reforms
“We want to make our labour laws at par with global standards”, so Bangladesh Chief Adviser Yunus. The interim government is committed to implementing significant labor reforms including advancing workers’ rights and addressing workplace issues to align with global norms. This is vital to sustain Bangladesh’s eligibility for trade benefits under the EU’s Generalized Scheme of Preferences Plus (GSP+).
Annual Wage Hike for Garment Workers Set at 9%
The government has raised the annual wage increase for garment workers from 5% to 9%, effective December, with payouts beginning in January. The decision, reached through a tripartite meeting, follows widespread protests demanding better pay and labor reforms. This raise, along with additional benefits under amended labor laws, will remain in place until a new minimum wage is announced.
India
The Rippling Effects of the Dindigul Agreement
This article highlights how members of the Tamil Nadu Textile & Common Labour Union (TTCU) are working through the Dindigul Agreement to combat gender-based violence both in the workplace and within their communities. The Shop Floor Monitoring System introduced by the agreement empowers workers to take action against injustice everywhere and to protect themselves from abuse in their private lives.
Cambodia
EU Urges Action on Shrinking Civic Spaces (pdf)
On November 28, the European Parliament adopted a resolution condemning the repression of civil society in Cambodia, particularly targeting the labour rights group CENTRAL. The resolution calls for an end to harassment of civil society and political prisoners, urges European brands to ensure supply chain due diligence, and demands stronger support for Cambodian human rights defenders from EU Member States and the European External Action Service (EEAS).
NETWORK & EVENTS
20th January - 9th March 2025, Online Course Series:
ETUI’s free onlince course on Just Transition
This Massive Open Online Course (MOOC) will unite trade unionists, researchers, and practitioners to explore the fields of labour law, industrial relations, and environmental law. Discovering the synergy between work and nature, the balance of labour and environmental sustainability, the intersection between labour law and environmental law, and much more will be part of the Skills for Labour and Environmental Justice series. By the end, attendees will have a deeper understanding of how these two fields of law can coexist and support one another. Registration until 16th December required.
Mon, starting 20th January 2025, Discussion Series:
Public Eye’s The One-Earth Fashion discussion series
The above mentioned report “One-Earth Fashion: 33 Transformation Targets for a Just Fashion System within Planetary Boundaries” is accompanied by a discussion series, One-Earth Fashion: How Do We Get There?. The events will explore each transformation target from January to April 2025. Each session tackles a critical aspect of reducing resource use, slowing production, and ensuring fair labor practices. First session on Monday 20th January, 2025, 3pm CET, focuses on “Material shift: from overproduction to circularity”. Registration required.
Mon, 14th January 2025, Workshop:
Unveiling the Hidden Crisis: Gender, Caste, and Climate in India’s Supply Chains
Especially recommended for those working in or with Indian supply chains. 10am CET. Invited by Beyond Sustaina-Bullshit.
We invite you to contribute events and networking opportunities for future editions by contacting us at
About Textile Insight
Our News Update is a monthly publication that serves as a chronicle of news, insights, and analysis, striving to amplify the voices of workers and advocating for meaningful change within the textile industry. This is an open invitation to all interested parties who wish to support an ambitious, sustainable textile industry and become part of this new network. If you have suggestions for specific topics or wish to submit news or information under the "Network" category, please feel free to write to
Textile Insight is a part of the Multi-Actor Partnership for Improved Due Diligence Implementation in the Textile Sector, a collaboration between Bangladeshi partners ESDO and BILS along with German civil society organizations HEJSupport, INKOTA-netzwerk e.V., SÜDWIND e.V., and FEMNET e.V. Further project partners include WageIndicator, MFNV and BLF.
Our project focuses on community- and worker-based monitoring to address labor rights violations and environmental risks from a rights holders' perspective. The aim is to improve working and living conditions and enhance the due diligence of purchasing brands.
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