November '24 : Gender-responsive transposition guide on the CSDDD, ongoing Bangladeshi worker protests and more...
In our ongoing commitment to providing insight into the evolving landscape of labor rights within the textile and garment industry, we offer updates on the latest developments and progress, with a particular focus on developments in Bangladesh. Among other intriguing topics, this issue includes two transposition guides on the CSDDD, which advocate for equitable practices that prioritize women’s and workers’ rights across the value chain, as well as insights into the current waves of worker protests in Bangladesh as a result of workers’ unmet demands, and the impact of automation in Bangladesh's RMG sector on the (female) workforce.
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STUDIES & REPORTS
The European Coalition for Corporate Justice (ECCJ) and several NGOs have published a guide on the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD) that emphasizes priorities like ensuring access to justice through burden-of-proof reversal, early and continuous stakeholder engagement, and extending due diligence to all parts of the value chain, including financial services. A complementary ActionAid report calls for gender-responsive transposition, urging policies that prioritize women workers’ rights and representation in due diligence practices. Together, these guides advocate for equitable and inclusive implementation of the CSDDD across EU member states.
Study: Grievance Mechanisms in India’s Footwear Industry: Failing Workers (pdf)
A new INKOTA study exposes severe shortcomings in labor rights protection in India’s footwear and leather industry. Based on interviews with 211 workers in Uttar Pradesh and Tamil Nadu, it reveals that grievance mechanisms are largely ineffective, with workers fearing retaliation for complaints. The examinations included production facilities of Zara, Bugatti, Clarks, Deichmann, Ecco, Jack & Jones, and others.
Report and Documentary: The Struggles of Karnataka’s Garment Workers
Cividep’s report and documentary shed light on the lives of 184 women garment workers in Karnataka, revealing exploitation through low wages, harassment, and unpaid domestic labor extending their workday to 16 hours. The documentary captures their personal stories of hardship, poverty cycles, and how social reproduction subsidizes capitalist profits. Both, the movie and the study call for integrated action between labor and women’s movements to challenge systemic inequities.
Analysis: From Due Diligence to Global Justice
In an article for the Rosa Luxemburg Foundation, Wiranta Ginting and Ashley Saxby (AFWA) explore the challenges of applying the German Supply Chain Act (LkSG) to South Asia’s garment sector. They emphasize the industry's complexity, the role of powerful economic elites, and the need for strengthened worker power in the context of transparent auditing and monitoring systems.
Levi’s Commits to Worker Protections in Pakistan Following Years of Advocacy
After prolonged pressure from labor rights groups, Levi’s has pledged to protect workers’ rights in Pakistan by signing the International Accord. This commitment includes adopting measures to ensure freedom of association and collective bargaining for factory workers. The move marks a significant step toward addressing longstanding labor issues in Levi’s supply chain, reflecting the power of sustained advocacy.
Worker Exploitation and Crime Alleged in Italy’s Luxury Hub
Prato, home to Europe’s largest concentration of Chinese-run businesses and a key production hub for luxury “Made in Italy” fashion, is under scrutiny for rampant labor exploitation. Workers face sweatshop-like conditions, including 13-hour shifts, minimal breaks, seven-day workweeks, and unsafe environments. Protests against these conditions have reportedly been met with threats and even violent attacks.
PRODUCTION COUNTRIES
Tens of Thousands of Garment Workers Continue Protests
Recent unrest in Bangladesh's garment sector has sparked new waves of protests and factory closures. Garment labour leaders, politicians and academics, during a national conference on November 1, urged the interim government to address the ongoing crises. Worker strikes in Savar and Gazipur demanding higher wages and benefits, were met with violent police repression, intensifying the situation. By early November, 33 factories had shut down. Workers of TNZ apparels had blocked highways for three days to demand unpaid wages and compensation, only ending the blockade after receiving assurances that their wages would be paid. The Sourcing Journal states, that the unrests are likely to continue through early December. Meanwhile, the minimum wage board is hindered by a lack of data and transparency in its wage-setting process, delaying progress in addressing workers' demands.
Bangladesh Crackdown 2024: Tracking Brand Links to Worker Repression
The Clean Clothes Campaign’s new action tracker exposes brands like H&M, Zara, and Levi’s linked to the crackdown on Bangladeshi garment workers protesting for fair wages. Over 40,000 workers face charges, with several deaths reported, highlighting severe repression. The campaign calls for brands to demand the withdrawal of charges, reinstate workers, and compensate victims.
Looking Ahead: Bangladesh's Path Forward Amid Political and Economic Struggles
In this article, David Birnbaum discusses the challenges facing Bangladesh's garment sector, highlighting the economic and political instability currently affecting the country. The piece explores the impact of these struggles on the workforce and the potential pathways forward for a more sustainable and just future.
Menstrual Health Challenges Persist in Bangladesh's Garment Sector
Despite some export-oriented factories offering subsidized sanitary products and medical leave, many female garment workers in Bangladesh continue to face significant menstrual health challenges due to high costs and limited access to hygiene products. This disparity highlights the ongoing need for comprehensive menstrual health support across the industry.
Automation and its Implications for the (Female) Workforce in the RMG Sector
Among other reasons, such as harassment, low wages, and excessive workload, the increasing automation in Bangladesh's ready-made garment (RMG) industry is contributing to a decline in female employment, with the male-to-female worker ratio now below 55%. Addressing this shift requires targeted training and supportive workplace policies to ensure women's continued engagement in the sector. This article examines the impact of advances in automation on workers.
Cambodia
Joint Call for World Bank Accountability on Cambodia’s Civil Society Suppression
A coalition of organizations, including International Federation for Human Rights (FIDH) and World Organisation against Torture (OMCT), has issued a joint statement urging the World Bank to address Cambodia’s alarming crackdown on civil society. The statement highlights systemic restrictions on freedom of expression and association, which undermine the operations of unions and labor advocates.
NETWORK & EVENTS
Thu, 21st November 2024, Webinar:
Democratizing Work to Combat Poverty
WageIndicator invites you to its webinar "Democratizing Work to Fight Against Poverty," exploring how workplace democracy can address economic inequalities and improve living standards. The event will bring together experts to discuss pathways for empowering workers, creating equitable working conditions, and combating poverty through fair labor practices. 2:00pm to 3:30pm, CET.
We invite you to contribute events and networking opportunities for future editions by contacting us at
About Textile Insight
Our News Update is a monthly publication that serves as a chronicle of news, insights, and analysis, striving to amplify the voices of workers and advocating for meaningful change within the textile industry. This is an open invitation to all interested parties who wish to support an ambitious, sustainable textile industry and become part of this new network. If you have suggestions for specific topics or wish to submit news or information under the "Network" category, please feel free to write to
Textile Insight is a part of the Multi-Actor Partnership for Improved Due Diligence Implementation in the Textile Sector, a collaboration between Bangladeshi partners ESDO and BILS along with German civil society organizations HEJSupport, INKOTA-netzwerk e.V., SÜDWIND e.V., and FEMNET e.V. Further project partners include WageIndicator, MFNV and BLF.
Our project focuses on community- and worker-based monitoring to address labor rights violations and environmental risks from a rights holders' perspective. The aim is to improve working and living conditions and enhance the due diligence of purchasing brands.
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